Jeep Cherokee (XJ): Disassembly and assembly. Cleaning and inspection. Specifications

Jeep Cherokee (XJ) 1984 - 2001 Service Manual > Engine > 4.0L engine > Disassembly and assembly. Cleaning and inspection. Specifications

Disassembly and assembly



Refer to the applicable sections for detailed instructions.

(1) Drain the engine oil. Remove and discard the oil filter.

(2) Remove the water pump from the cylinder block.

(3) Remove the vibration damper.

(4) Remove the timing case cover and lay the cover upside down.

(5) Position a drift punch into the slot in the back of the cover and tap the old seal out.

(6) Remove the oil slinger from crankshaft.

(7) Remove the camshaft retaining bolt and remove the sprockets and chain as an assembly.

(8) Remove the camshaft.

(9) Remove the oil pan and gasket.

(10) Remove the front and rear oil galley plugs.

(11) Remove the oil pump.

(12) Remove the connecting rods and the pistons.

Remove the connecting rod and piston assemblies through the top of the cylinder bores.

(13) Remove the crankshaft.


Refer to the applicable sections for detailed instructions.

(1) Install the crankshaft.

(2) Install the connecting rods and the pistons through the top of the cylinder bores.

(3) Install the oil pump.

(4) Install the oil pan and gasket.

(5) Install the camshaft.

(6) Install the sprockets and chain as an assembly.

(7) Install the oil slinger from the crankshaft.

(8) Install the timing case cover seal.

(9) Install the timing case cover.

(10) Install the vibration damper.

(11) Install the water pump. Tighten the mounting bolts to 31 N·m (23 ft. lbs.) torque.

(12) Lubricate the oil filter seal with clean engine oil. Tighten oil filter to 18 N·m (156 in. lbs.) torque.

(13) Install the engine into the vehicle.

(14) Fill the engine with clean lubrication oil (refer to Group 0, Lubrication and Maintenance).

(15) Fill the cooling system.

Cleaning and inspection

Cylinder head


Thoroughly clean the engine cylinder head and cylinder block mating surfaces. Clean the intake and engine exhaust manifold and engine cylinder head mating surfaces. Remove all gasket material and carbon.

Check to ensure that no coolant or foreign material has fallen into the tappet bore area.

Remove the carbon deposits from the combustion chambers and top of the pistons.


Use a straightedge and feeler gauge to check the flatness of the engine cylinder head and block mating surfaces.

Cylinder head cover


Remove any original sealer from the cover sealing surface of the engine cylinder head and clean the surface using a fabric cleaner.

Remove all residue from the sealing surface using a clean, dry cloth.


Inspect the engine cylinder head cover for cracks.

Replace the cover, if cracked.

The original dark grey gasket material should NOT be removed. If sections of the gasket material are missing or are compressed, replace the engine cylinder head cover. However, sections with minor damage such as small cracks, cuts or chips may be repaired with a hand held applicator. The new material must be smoothed over to maintain gasket height. Allow the gasket material to cure prior to engine cylinder head cover installation.

Rocker arms and push rods


Clean all the components with cleaning solvent.

Use compressed air to blow out the oil passages in the rocker arms and push rods.


Inspect the pivot surface area of each rocker arm.

Replace any that are scuffed, pitted, cracked or excessively worn.

Inspect the valve stem tip contact surface of each rocker arm and replace any rocker arm that is deeply pitted.

Inspect each push rod end for excessive wear and replace as required. If any push rod is excessively worn because of lack of oil, replace it and inspect the corresponding hydraulic tappet for excessive wear.

Inspect the push rods for straightness by rolling them on a flat surface or by shining a light between the push rod and the flat surface.

A wear pattern along the length of the push rod is not normal. Inspect the engine cylinder head for obstruction if this condition exists.

Hydraulic tappets


Clean each tappet assembly in cleaning solvent to remove all varnish, gum and sludge deposits.


Inspect for indications of scuffing on the side and base of each tappet body.

Inspect each tappet base for concave wear with a straightedge positioned across the base. If the base is concave, the corresponding lobe on the camshaft is also worn. Replace the camshaft and defective tappets.

After cleaning and inspection, test each tappet for specified leak-down rate tolerance to ensure zero-lash operation (Fig. 84).

Swing the weighted arm of the hydraulic valve tappet tester away from the ram of the Leak-Down Tester.

(1) Place a 7.925-7.950 mm (0.312-0.313 inch) diameter ball bearing on the plunger cap of the tappet.

(2) Lift the ram and position the tappet (with the ball bearing) inside the tester cup.

(3) Lower the ram, then adjust the nose of the ram until it contacts the ball bearing. DO NOT tighten the hex nut on the ram.

(4) Fill the tester cup with hydraulic valve tappet test oil until the tappet is completely submerged.

(5) Swing the weighted arm onto the push rod and pump the tappet plunger up and down to remove air.

When the air bubbles cease, swing the weighted arm away and allow the plunger to rise to the normal position.

(6) Adjust the nose of the ram to align the pointer with the SET mark on the scale of the tester and tighten the hex nut.

(7) Slowly swing the weighted arm onto the push rod.

(8) Rotate the cup by turning the handle at the base of the tester clockwise one revolution every 2 seconds.

(9) Observe the leak-down time interval from the instant the pointer aligns with the START mark on the scale until the pointer aligns with the 0.125 mark. A normally functioning tappet will require 20-110 seconds to leak-down. Discard tappets with leak-down time interval not within this specification.

Fig. 84 Leak-Down Tester
Fig. 84 Leak-Down Tester

3 - RAM
4 - CUP

Cylinder block


Thoroughly clean the oil pan and engine block gasket surfaces.

Use compressed air to clean out:

  •  The galley at the oil filter adaptor hole.
  •  The front and rear oil galley holes.
  •  The feed holes for the crankshaft main bearings.

Once the block has been completely cleaned, apply Loctite PST pipe sealant with Teflon 592 to the threads of the front and rear oil galley plugs. Tighten the plugs to 34 N·m (25 ft. lbs.) torque.


(1) It is mandatory to use a dial bore gauge to measure each cylinder bore diameter (Fig. 85). To correctly select the proper size piston, a cylinder bore gauge, capable of reading in 0.003 mm (.0001 in.) INCREMENTS is required. If a bore gauge is not available, do not use an inside micrometer.

Fig. 85 Cylinder Bore Measurement
Fig. 85 Cylinder Bore Measurement

(2) Measure the inside diameter of the cylinder bore at three levels below top of bore. Start perpendicular (across or at 90 degrees) to the axis of the crankshaft and then take two additional reading.

(3) Measure the cylinder bore diameter crosswise to the cylinder block near the top of the bore. Repeat the measurement near the middle of the bore, then repeat the measurement near the bottom of the bore.

(4) Determine taper by subtracting the smaller diameter from the larger diameter.

(5) Rotate measuring device 90 and repeat steps above.

(6) Determine out-of-roundness by comparing the difference between each measurement.

(7) If cylinder bore taper does not exceed 0.025 mm (0.001 inch) and out-of-roundness does not exceed 0.025 mm (0.001 inch), the cylinder bore can be honed. If the cylinder bore taper or out- of-round condition exceeds these maximum limits, the cylinder must be bored and then honed to accept an oversize piston. A slight amount of taper always exists in the cylinder bore after the engine has been in use for a period of time.











Torque specifications



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