Jeep Cherokee (XJ): Form-in-place gaskets. Engine performance. Honing cylinder bores

Jeep Cherokee (XJ) 1984 - 2001 Service Manual > Engine > 2.5L engine > Service procedures > Form-in-place gaskets. Engine performance. Honing cylinder bores

Form-in-place gaskets

There are several places where form-in-place gaskets are used on the engine. DO NOT use form-inplace gasket material unless specified. Care must be taken when applying form-in-place gaskets.

Bead size, continuity and location are of great importance.

Too thin a bead can result in leakage while too much can result in spill-over. A continuous bead of the proper width is essential to obtain a leak-free joint.

Two types of form-in-place gasket materials are used in the engine area (Mopar Silicone Rubber Adhesive Sealant and Mopar Gasket Maker). Each have different properties and cannot be used interchangeably.


Mopar Silicone Rubber Adhesive Sealant, normally black in color, is available in 3 ounce tubes. Moisture in the air causes the sealant material to cure. This material is normally used on flexible metal flanges.

It has a shelf life of a year and will not properly cure if over aged. Always inspect the package for the expiration date before use.


Mopar Gasket Maker, normally red in color, is available in 6 cc tubes. This anaerobic type gasket material cures in the absence of air when squeezed between smooth machined metallic surfaces. It will not cure if left in the uncovered tube. DO NOT use on flexible metal flanges.


Parts assembled with form-in-place gaskets may be disassembled without unusual effort. In some instances, it may be necessary to lightly tap the part with a mallet or other suitable tool to break the seal between the mating surfaces. A flat gasket scraper may also be lightly tapped into the joint but care must be taken not to damage the mating surfaces.

Scrape or wire brush all gasket surfaces to remove all loose material. Inspect stamped parts to ensure gasket rails are flat. Flatten rails with a hammer on a flat plate, if required. Gasket surfaces must be free of oil and dirt. Make sure the old gasket material is removed from blind attaching holes.


Assembling parts using a form-in-place gasket requires care.

Mopar Silicone Rubber Adhesive Sealant should be applied in a continuous bead approximately 3 mm (0.12 inch) in diameter. All mounting holes must be circled. For corner sealing, a 3 or 6 mm (1/8 or 1/4 inch) drop is placed in the center of the gasket contact area. Uncured sealant may be removed with a shop towel. Components should be torqued in place while the sealant is still wet to the touch (within 10 minutes). The use of a locating dowel is recommended during assembly to prevent smearing the material off location.

Mopar Gasket Maker should be applied sparingly to one gasket surface. The sealant diameter should be 1.00 mm (0.04 inch) or less. Be certain the material surrounds each mounting hole. Excess material can easily be wiped off. Components should be torqued in place within 15 minutes. The use of a locating dowel is recommended during assembly to prevent smearing the material off location.

Engine performance

It is important that the vehicle is operating to its optimum performance level to maintain fuel economy and the lowest emission levels. If vehicle is not operating to these standards, refer to Engine Diagnosis outlined in this section. The following procedures can assist in achieving the proper engine diagnosis.

(1) Test cranking amperage draw. Refer to Electrical Group 8B, Cold Cranking Test.

(2) Check intake manifold bolt torque; Refer to Group 11, Exhaust System and Intake Manifold.

(3) Perform cylinder compression test. Refer to Cylinder Compression Pressure Test in the Engine Diagnosis area of this section.

(4) Clean or replace spark plugs as necessary and adjust gap as specified in Electrical Group 8D.

Tighten to specifications.

(5) Test resistance of spark plug cables. Refer to Electrical Group 8D, Spark Plug Cables.

(6) Inspect the primary wires. Test coil output voltage and primary resistance. Replace parts as necessary.

Refer to Electrical Group 8D, for specifications.

(7) Test fuel pump for pressure. Refer to Group 14, Fuel System Specifications.

(8) The air filter elements should be replaced as specified in Lubrication and Maintenance, Group 0.

(9) Inspect crankcase ventilation system as out lined in Group 0, Lubrication and Maintenance. For emission controls see Group 25, Emission Controls for service procedures.

(10) Road test vehicle as a final test.

Honing cylinder bores

Before honing, stuff plenty of clean shop towels under the bores and over the crankshaft to keep abrasive materials from entering the crankshaft area.

(1) Used carefully, the Cylinder Bore Sizing Hone C-823 equipped with 220 grit stones, is the best tool for this job. In addition to deglazing, it will reduce taper and out-of-round as well as removing light scuffing, scoring or scratches. Usually a few strokes will clean up a bore and maintain the required limits.

CAUTION: DO NOT use rigid type hones to remove cylinder wall glaze.

(2) Deglazing of the cylinder walls may be done if the cylinder bore is straight and round. Use a cylinder surfacing hone, Honing Tool C-3501, equipped with 280 grit stones (C-3501-3810). 20-60 strokes, depending on the bore condition, will be sufficient to provide a satisfactory surface. Using honing oil C-3501-3880 or a light honing oil available from major oil distributors.

CAUTION: DO NOT use engine or transmission oil, mineral spirits or kerosene.

(3) Honing should be done by moving the hone up and down fast enough to get a crosshatch pattern.

The hone marks should INTERSECT at 50 to 60 for proper seating of rings (Fig. 36).

Fig. 36 Cylinder Bore Crosshatch Pattern
Fig. 36 Cylinder Bore Crosshatch Pattern


(4) A controlled hone motor speed between 200 and 300 RPM is necessary to obtain the proper crosshatch angle. The number of up and down strokes per minute can be regulated to get the desired 50 to 60 angle. Faster up and down strokes increase the crosshatch angle.

(5) After honing, it is necessary that the block be cleaned to remove all traces of abrasive. Use a brush to wash parts with a solution of hot water and detergent.

Dry parts thoroughly. Use a clean, white, lintfree cloth to check that the bore is clean. Oil the bores after cleaning to prevent rusting.

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